How to Sew a Flamenco Skirt – Making the Ruffles

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  Click to enlarge

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Not every flamenco skirt needs ruffles but ruffles can quickly turn an ordinary skirt into a flamenco skirt. This post is part of the tutorial How to Sew a Flamenco Skirt. If you haven’t already check out How to Sew a Flamenco Skirt – Tutorial Part 1, How to Sew a Flamenco Skirt – Tutorial Part 2 and How to Sew a Flamenco Skirt – Tutorial Part 3 for step by step instructions for making the skirt.

Download the entire tutorial in pdf format

There are a many different types and sizes of ruffles. I have given an overview of those in another post – How to Make Ruffles – A Quick Guide For Frill Seekers.

For the purpose of this tutorial I’ll stick with the medium size, circular ruffles used for the skirt we have been making.

Cutting the Ruffles

How to cut the ruffles depends on the size of the pattern/circle you are using, the width and thickness of your fabric and the type/strength of scissors or rotary cutter you have. To make all the ruffles for the skirt you will need to cut quite a number of circles (check the pattern details for the exact number) so if your fabric type and tools allow you will want to cut more than one circle at a time.

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  cutting fabric strips 50cm wide

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  folding fabric in 3 equal parts

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  fold in half and cut outer circle

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  cutting inner circle

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  cut open the circle

The ruffles of our flamenco skirt are based on a circular ruffle pattern with a diameter just under 50cm. Assuming that the fabric is 1,50m wide we can cut 3 circles from one fabric strip 50cm x 150cm (fabric width).

I find it easier to cut individual 50cm strips instead of cutting from the entire piece of fabric. So

• Divide the number of circles needed (you find that in the pattern information) by 3 (3 circles per fabric strip) to get the number of 50cm strips you need
• Cut the required number of 50cm wide fabric strips. For most fabrics you can just make a small cut into the fabric edge and tear across the rest. This way you take advantage of the threads making up the fabric and easily achieve a straight strip
• Measure 50cm along the fabric width and fold, fold again so you end up with 3 50cm squares

Then EITHER

• Place the pattern onto the fabric and cut along the outer circle
• Mark the inner circle using tailor’s chalk
• Remove the pattern, cut from the outer edge to the center of the circle and cut out the inner circle

OR

If you have light weight fabric and/or scissors/rotary cutter that can handle 6 layers of fabric

• Fold in half
• Fold pattern in half and place on fabric fold
• Cut the outer half circle
• Cut the inner half circle
• Cut the circle open on one side

Repeat this step for all the fabric strips until you have the required number of circles.

TIP: In theory, the circumference of the inner circle equals the length of a piece of ruffle made from that circle. Light weight or loosely woven fabrics relax though when cut and give a few centimeters more. So in order to make good use of the fabric you may want to hold off and not cut the last strip, you may not need it. Whether or not you need it depends on the type of your fabric so don’t use it for anything else just yet.

Making the Ruffle

At this point we have a number of individual circles ready to be joined into one long ruffle.

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  individual circles

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  ruffle circles ready to be joined

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  circles joined and finished

1. Join the ruffle pieces (circles) along the edge where you cut open the circle. Place two circles on top of each other, right sides together and sew along this edge. I use a serger for this step. If you don’t have a serger you can use your regular sewing machine and finish the seam using a zig zag stitch. If your fabric does not fray you can skip this step.
2. Repeat the previous step until all circles are joined into one large ruffle. I find that easier than measuring the exact length of each skirt ruffle and making 5 individual, different length ruffles.
3. Then finish the inner edge of the ruffle using the serger. Again, if you don’t have one use a zig zag stitch or skip this step if the fabric does not fray.
4. Finish the outer edge of the ruffle. In most cases I use a narrow rolled hem using the serger. For other options see HOW TO FINISH THE RUFFLES OF A FLAMENCO DANCE COSTUME – NO SERGER, NO PROBLEM

Almost done … Go on to How to Sew a Flamenco Skirt – Sewing Ruffles onto the Skirt

Missed a step?

Go back to previous parts of the tutorial:

How to Sew a Flamenco Skirt – Tutorial Part 1

How to Sew a Flamenco Skirt – Tutorial Part 2

How to Sew a Flamenco Skirt – Tutorial Part 3

Download the entire tutorial in pdf format