How to Sew a Flamenco Skirt - Tutorial Part 3

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This is part 3 of the Flamenco Skirt Tutorial. If you haven’t already check out How to Sew a Flamenco Skirt – Tutorial Part 1 where we got started and cut all the necessary skirt pieces and How to Sew a Flamenco Skirt – Tutorial Part 2 where we finished off the raw edges to get ready to sew.

Download the entire tutorial in pdf format

The sequence of steps outlined below is not the only way to sew the skirt, it is however the way that I have found works best for me.

Step 1 – Back seams and zipper

Start with the center back pieces. Place right sides together and mark the zipper opening transferring the mark from the pattern. Sew from the mark down.
Next sew the 2 side back pieces to the center back piece with the zipper opening
Press the seams open
Insert the zipper

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Mark zipper placement
Center back seam sewn
side back pieces sewn, ready to press
Seams pressed, ready to insert zipper

Step 2 – Front Seams

Join the two side front pieces to either side of the center front piece.
Press the seams open

Step 3 – Facing

The facing provides a simple, very clean finish for the top of the skirt. Making the facing from the poplin lining fabric or other stiff fabric helps the the part of the skirt above the waist stay in place without compromising comfort. I usually sew the facing to the front and back pieces before closing the side seams. Given that flamenco skirts are very close fitting it is fairly common that they need to be altered at some point. Alterations are a lot easier with side seams easily accessible. If you prefer a prettier finish you can close the side seams first, join the back facing pieces to the front facing and sew the facing to the skirt last.

Sew the top of the front facing piece to the top of the skirt front (right side up) at 1.5cm (half an inch) from the top
Fold facing towards the seam allowance and understitch (stitch the facing to the seam allowance, approx. 1mm from the original seam)
Fold facing to the inside (lined side) and press
Hand stitch the serged bottom end of the facing to the lining (optional. This is to prevent the facing from sliding up and peeking out. Poplin facing with understitching and sandwiched in the side seams stays in place without)
Repeat for the back facing pieces

front facing
back facing
facing, understitched, folded, pressed

Step 4 – Side Seams & Finishing Touches

We’re just a couple of steps away from finishing our skirt.

Sew the side seams
Try on the skirt and make any adjustments necessary.
Double check the length and even out the hem. Light weight or loosely woven fabrics relax a fair bit when cut on the bias (like in the area of the skirt flare) so the skirt is likely to be a little longer at the seams than in the center of the pieces. Hem the skirt (I usually do it with a narrow rolled hem using the serger)
Place a hook and eye (or button and button hole if you prefer) at the top of the zipper to take strain off the zipper