Whether you make your own patterns or buy them, a pattern remains a pattern – a two dimensional representation of a three dimensional human body, based on certain assumptions about body proportions. So no matter how many measurements you take, which pattern making approach you use or which pattern you buy, it is more than likely that at some point your body, or that of the person you sew for, does not follow those assumptions and the garment does not fit as expected.
Obviously, the more fitted the garment (like any flamenco dress) the more likely you are to encounter a fitting problem.
The most valuable resource in my book shelf for solutions to fitting issues is “Fit for Real People” by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto. It covers the topic in-depth:
- Pattern sizes (history and issues you might come across)
- How to alter a pattern (the techniques described assume you use a commercial paper pattern)
- Solutions to a wide range of fitting problems (the back, the neck & chest, darts, bust, sleeves, waist, hips, tummy – you name it, this book has a solution)
- Applying the techniques using real life examples
- Tips on making a garment more flattering (learn about proportions and how to show off the best parts of your body while distracting attention from the ones you don’t like)
Techniques are well explained with clear drawings and photos.
Having a great pattern and knowing all the sewing techniques is not enough. Only when you know how to solve fitting problems will you be able to make a garment you won’t want to take off.
Check it out at Amazon